Jerusalem Artichoke: This hardy perennial is a relative of the sunflower rather than the globe artichoke. It has underground tubers which are whitish in colour and club-like with knobbly protrusions. The delicate flavour is best appreciated if Jerusalem artichokes are served alone or as a creamy soup. The plants reach

Aubergine: In cool districts aubergines can be raised only in a heated green-house, though if a sheltered, sunny site is available plants in pots can be moved outside in summer.

Growing: In late winter, or early spring for plants you plan to move outside, sow seeds

2.5m/8ft and make excellent screens.

Growing: They can be grown in even the poorest soils - in fact very fertile soils encourage too much foliage at the expense of the tubers. Save some tubers from a previous crop and plant them in early spring. The plants will need little attention but in exposed positions support the tall leafy stems with posts and wires.

Harvesting: The foliage dies down in the autumn. Pick some tubers in mid autumn if you wish, but the flavour improves if they are left in the ground to be lifted during the winter as needed. Make sure you lift all of them or they will come up again the following year.

Possible Problems: A trouble-free crop.

Organic Tip: These tall plants, when supported, can provide a useful windbreak to other delicate plants in the garden.

thinly in trays of seed compost, cover lightly with compost and keep moist at a temperature of 21C/70F until germination occurs. When they are large enough to handle, prick the seedlings out into 9cm/3.5in pots of proprietary compost. They can be planted out in late spring, either into the greenhouse bed or in 20cm/8in individual pots. A well-drained, moisture-retentive soil is necessary, and as with all greenhouse cultivation, it must be free of soil-borne diseases. Pinch out the leading shoot when the plant reaches 15cm/6in to encourage bushy growth. Aubergines like heat and humidity, so spray frequently with water and feed regularly with a nitrogenous fertilizer. Provide stakes for the plants to allow 3 or 4 shoots to develop on each.

Harvesting: The first fruits should be ready in mid summer. Cut them off with a sharp knife.

Possible Problems: Aphids, glasshouse whitefly and red mite.

Beans - Broad:

Broad beans are the hardiest of the legumes that we grow. They are usually shelled from the pods when they are almost fully grown, although young pods may be cooked whole or sliced like French or runner beans.

Beans - Climbing French Bean:

These are half hardy annuals which cannot be sown in the open until all danger of frost has passed. This type of bean is most popular in France - hence its common name.

Growing: The earliest of the successful sowings in the spring will need to be made into light, open-textured soils. In common with many other legumes, broad beans do not grow well in acid soils. On soils which are reasonably fertile and have had organic material worked into them, it should be possible to apply base fertilizers which just provide phosphate and potassium. You can grow broad beans in double rows, allowing 20cm/8in between the two lines and from 60-90cm/2-3ft, according to variety, between the double rows. Alternatively they can be grown in single rows spaced 60cm/2ft apart. Put each individual seed into a 5-7.5cm/2-3in deep hole made with a dibber.

Harvesting: Pick beans for slicing or cooking whole when they are 7.5cm/3in long. Those for shelling are ready when the seeds are about 2cm/3/4in across.

Possible Problems: Blackfly may attack from late spring onwards but the damage can be reduced by pinching out the tops of the plants when they are in full flower. Give support to large plants by knocking in stakes at each corner of the growing area and encircling the crop with string.

Organic Tip: If you cut plants down to 5cm/2in after harvesting they should regrow to give you a second crop. The roots of bean plants take nitrogen from the air and fix it in the soil so plant any leftover seeds, then dig in the young plants in summer.

Growing: Light, well-drained soils are required, while it helps if organic manure/compost has been worked in during the autumn preparations. Acid soils will not be tolerated. Incorporate a good general base fertilizer dressing during the final preparations before sowing: 25-50g/m2/1-2oz per sq yd of something like fish and bone meal will be suitable, provided that soft growth is not induced by too much nitrogen. Sow seeds 7.5cm/3in apart and 4-5cm/1.5-2in deep from late spring onwards in single rows, spaced 90cm/3ft apart. Thin to 15cm/6in apart in the rows after the first leaves emerge. They are easily damaged by wind buffeting, so grow them in a sheltered spot. The beans can climb as high as 1.5m/5ft, so support with tall pea sticks.

Harvesting: Pick the beans when they are young and tender. Any delay will tend to cause stringiness, even though 'stringless' varieties are available. Regular picking will encourage more pods to develop. Small pods that snap easily and which have no sign of the beans showing through the skin are the tastiest.

Possible Problems: Aphids may damage the pods.

Gardeners Tip: Train climbing vegetables up a tepee of canes. Then while the plants are still small you can use the space beneath for a fast growing crop they garden cress or lettuce.

and freezing.

Growing: The best results are obtained in fertile, well-drained land which has been deeply dug in the autumn and had liberal dressings of organic manure incorporated. This helps to improve soil structure as well as retaining moisture. Maincrop runner beans are sown outside from late spring onwards. Sow the seeds 5cm/2in deep and 15cm/6in apart in double rows leaving 60cm/2ft between the two lines of plants and 100cm/3ft 6in between each double row. As soon as the young plants emerge, push 2.5m/9ft long poles or bamboo canes into the ground and when the plants are tall enough, train them on to the supports. Water regularly and very thoroughly in dry weather.

Harvesting: Pick before the seeds become obvious through the pod wall. Regular picking will ensure continuous flowering and fruiting.

Possible Problems: Look out for aphids in summer

podded varieties are now available.

Growing: Light, well drained soils are required, while it helps if organic manure/compost has been worked in during the autumn preparations. Acid soils will not be tolerated. Incorporate a good general base fertilizer dressing during the final preparations before sowing: 25-50g/m2/1-2oz per sq yd of something like fish and bone meal will be suitable, provided that soft growth is not induced by too much nitrogen. Sow seeds 7.5cm/3in apart and 4-5cm/1.5-2in deep from late spring onwards in single rows, spaced 45-60cm/1ft6in-2ft apart. Thin after the first leaves emerge.

Harvesting: Pick the beans when they are young and tender. Regular picking will encourage more pods to develop. The beans are in prime condition for picking when the pods can be snapped cleanly. At the end of the crop, remove the visible parts of the plants and dig in the roots to provide valuable nitrogen.

Possible Problems: Look out for slugs and aphids. Weeds may swamp young plants; hoe carefully, for they are very easily chopped off at ground level.

Beetroot - Globe: This type of beetroot has small, globular roots and is best for summer use and for pickling.

Growing: Light, sandy soils are best. Soil that is flinty or stony or which has been recently manured will produce misshapen roots. Deep digging should be done in

Beetroot - Long: Long varieties of beetroot can be stored over winter, making this an all-the-year-round vegetable. Beetroot make a delicious winter vegetable, served hot with creamy white sauce.

Growing: Soil requirements are as for globe beetroot,

autumn, leaving the surface rough over winter. Prepare a fine tilth and work in a general purpose fertilizer just before sowing. Plants from sowings made too early may 'bolt', even if bolting-resistant varieties are used. Sow seed clusters from mid spring to early summer, soaking seed overnight to assist germination. Provide cloches to protect the earliest sowings and in colder districts. Keep weeds under control, but be careful not to damage the roots when hoeing. Water sparingly except in very dry summers, when beetroots tend to become woody.

Harvesting: Pick from early summer, lifting carefully to avoid damaging the roots, which will 'bleed' when pierced. Pick by hand if possible, or use a flat-tined fork and grasp the leaves like a handle. Twist off the tops carefully to keep the roots intact for cooking.

Possible Problems: Keep aphids at bay on the young leaves. Plants sown too close together may attract the carrot fly.

remembering that even heavy soils can be used, provided they have been lightened by the addition of peat or organic compost when digging in the autumn. Maincrop long beets should be sown in late spring, and the seedlings thinned 2-3 weeks after they emerge. Keep on top of weeds, always being careful not to damage the beets.

Harvesting: Long beetroot may either be left in the ground until required - in which case they should be strawed over to give protection against the severest frosts - or the roots can be lifted, cleaned and stored. Lift before late autumn as described for globe beets, discarding any that are damaged or diseased. If you cut the leaves off rather than twisting them, don't cut too close to the crown or 'bleeding' will occur.

Storage: Place the trimmed beetroot on their sides in boxes of slightly damp sand. Keep the boxes in an airy frost-free place and inspect them at regular intervals.

Possible Problems: Boron deficiency causes heart rot.

Broccoli: Sprouting broccoli is similar to cauliflower, but produces a loose collection of flowerheads.

Growing: A well-drained, alkaline soil which has not recently grown a brassica crop is essential. It should be fertile, open and able to support a good root system.

Brussels Sprouts: Brussels sprouts are hardy plants that stand over-winter, protected by the canopy of leaves.

Growing: Fertile soil is essential, worked deeply enough to sustain the deep root system necessary for a

Broccoli plants thrive after well-manured crops such as early potatoes. Work in a top dressing of nitro-chalk in early spring. Sow seeds 2cm/3/4in apart in an outdoor seedbed in mid spring, in drills 20-30cm/8-12in apart. In early summer, transplant the seedlings to the growing site, taking care not to damage the roots. Firm the plants in and water well. Mulch between the rows in summer to suppress weeds. Stake firmly against winter winds and earth up around the stems for extra support.

Harvesting: Sprouting may begin in mid winter, more likely late winter, and continues to late spring when the plants go to seed. Remove sprouting sideshoots when they are mature so that more will be produced further down. Snap off as close to the main stem as possible.

Possible Problems: Watch for aphids and whitefly. If you notice any plant with clubroot, remove and destroy, do not put in compost.

long growing season. Apply lime in the autumn/winter before planting. Raise plants outdoors in a seedbed in a sheltered part of the garden. Sow seed in early spring in drills spaced 25-30cm/10-12in apart. Transplant when the plants reach 15cm/6in, about 8 weeks later. Work a base dressing of a general purpose fertilizer into the soil of the growing site. Soak the seedbed before gently easing the young plants out with a fork. Discard any that are diseased, damaged or lack a growing point. Firm them into place and give a good base watering. Weed well and water the base of the stems in dry seasons. Top-dress with a nitrogenous fertilizer in late summer. Tall varieties need staking.

Harvesting: Depending on variety, the first sprouts should be ready in early autumn. Pick from the bottom upwards, cutting with a sharp knife.

Possible Problems: The most severe disease of all brassicas is the club root fungus. Do not grow on acid soils; rotate crops.

Cabbage - Spring: Very hardy varieties stand over winter from summer sowings to mature at the beginning of the following year.

Growing: Go for rich, deep soil which is moisture retentive but well drained. Incorporate plenty of well-rotted organic manure the

Cabbage - Early Summer: The first cabbages of the year can be harvested in laate spring or early summer. Both round and pointed varieties are available.

Growing: All cabbages prefer rich, deep soils which are moisture retentive but well drained. Incorporate plenty of

autumn before planting. Do not grow on soil that grew brassicas the previous year. Sow seed in an outdoor seedbed in mid-late summer in shallow drills 20-3-cm/8-12in apart. In early autumn, before transplanting, work a base dressing of a general purpose fertilizer in to the growing site. Water the seedlings well before lifting, being careful not to damage the roots. Retain healthy specimens only. Firm the young plants in well and give them a good watering. They over-winter as small plants; so that they will grow rapidly in the new year, hoe in top dressings of nitrogenous fertilizer from late winter onwards.

Harvesting: Spring cabbages are relatively small when mature. Pick as soon as they are ready and use fresh.

Possible Problems: Cabbage root fly, aphids, club root fungus.

Gardener's Tip: Never let brassicas go short of water. Unless the weather is constantly wet, keep the soil deeply and evenly moist, especially for seedlings and new transplants.

well-rotted organic manure the autumn before planting. Do not grow on soil that grew brassicas the previous year. Sow seed in mid-late winter in cold or slightly heated greenhouses or frames (10C/50F), either in drills 20cm/8in apart directly into the soil or in seed trays. With the latter method the seedlings should be pricked out when large enough into other trays at 5 x 2.5cm/2 x 1in. Plant outside in mid spring, watering the seedlings well before lifting them carefully. Discard diseased or damaged specimens. Firm in and water well. Continue to water the plants and give nitrogenous fertilizer regularly. Hoe weeds away.

Harvesting: Early cabbages are best picked as soon as they are mature, and used fresh and crisp. Cut heads with a sharp knife.

Possible Problems: Cabbage root fly is prevalent in late spring. Spray with an organic spray. Rotate crops to discourage club root disease.

Organic Tip: To outwit the cabbage root fly take a 15cm/6in square of foam-rubber carpet underlay, cut a slip from the centre of one side into the middle. Add a small cross slip at the centre and slip this around the plant base.

Cabbage - Summer/ Autumn: Cabbages sown outdoors in late spring are ready to pick from late summer to late autumn according to variety.

Growing: Cabbages prefer rich, deep soils which are moisture retentive but well drained. Incorporate plenty of well-rotted

organic manure the autumn before planting. Do not grow on soil that grew brassicas the previous year. Sow seed in an outdoor seedbed during mid or late spring in drills 20-30cm/8-12in apart. Transplant to the growing site in early/mid summer, watering the seedlings well before lifting. Take care not to damage the roots. Retain healthy specimens only. Firm in well. Water generously and give top dressing of nitro-chalk to sustain growth. Hoe to control weeds until the leaves meet between the rows.

Harvesting: Most summer/autumn-maturing cabbages are best picked as soon as they are ready, but a few types stand well.

Possible Problems: Spray against cabbage root fly in late spring. Spray young leaves against aphids. Rotate crops to discourage club root disease.

Organic Tip: Keep aphids at bay by encouraging hoverflies to inhabit your cabbage patch. Entice them with their favourite flat, open floers like yarrow, fennel and French marigolds.

Growing: Soil should be rich and deep, moisture retentive but well drained.Incorporate plenty of well-rotted organic manure the autumn before planting. Do not grow on soil that grew brassicas the previous year. Sow seed in an outdoor seedbed during mid or late spring in drills 20-30cm/8-12in apart. Transplant to the growing site in early/mid summer, watering the seedlings well before lifting. Take care not to damage the roots. Retain healthy specimens only. Firm in well. Water generously and give top dressing of nitro-chalk to sustain growth. Hoe to control weeds until the leaves meet between the rows.

Harvesting: Savoy cabbages mature from early autumn, while other winter cabbages stand throughout the winter. Cut the mature heads when required. To store white winter cabbages, cut in late autumn/early winter. Remove the outer leaves and stack the heads pyramid fashion in a cool, dry, frost-free shed.

Calabrese: This delicious green relative of white and purple sprouting broccoli, hailing from Italy, is not winter hardy and must be harvested between late summer and mid autumn. It freezes beautifully.

Growing: To get the best results, calabrese must be grown rapidly.

Carrot - Forcing: The carrot varieties suitable for forcing or early cultivation are the stump-rooted types.

Growing: All carrot crops like a light, open-textured soil, and this is essential for early plantings. The soil must also be fertile and moisture

Soil must be non-acid, fertile and well drained but moisture retentive. Raise plants in an outdoor seedbed, sowing in mid spring. Place frames or cloches over the bed in advance to warm it up. Sow seeds 2cm/3/4in apart in rows 20-30/8-12in apart and replace the frames/cloches. Water lightly. By early summer the plants are ready for transplanting, after a brief period of hardening off. Soak the seedbed before easing out the plants. Destroy any that are deformed or diseased. Firm them in to the growing site. Dwarf types can be set closer together than the standards. Weed regularly. Constant supplies of water and nitrogenous fertilizer are needed if the necessary strong plant framework is to be produced.

Harvesting: Early-maturing varieties are ready for picking in late summer. Cut the terminal head first, using a sharp knife, to encourage formation of small axillary 'spears'.

Possible Problems: Watch for aphids and white fly. Club root (see Brussels Sprouts).

retentive if good-sized roots are to develop. Dig over the plot in the autumn and leave it rough over winter for a tilth to form, but do not dig in organic manure, which will cause forking of the roots. Rake over the soil in mid winter to give a fine tilth, incorporating a general purpose fertilizer. Sow seed in shallow drills and lightly rake it in. Water evenly and regularly and cover with cloches or frames. Ventilate on warm, sunny days. Remove the cloches/frames in mid spring. Thinning the seedlings is unnecessary.

Harvesting: Pull the tender carrots for use as soon as they reach the required size. This crop will continue until late spring.

Possible Problems: Early sowings escape the worst problems, but aphids may attack the leaves. Spray with a suitable insecticide.

Carrot - Maincrop:

For main crop carrots to be used in late summer both stump-rooted and long tapering varieties are available. Those picked in the autumn for winter storage must be long-rooted types.

Cauliflower - Early: Tender early summer cauliflowers have the finest flavour.

Growing: An alkaline soil that has not recently grown another brassica is esential. It should be open, fertile and able to sustain rapid unchecked

Growing: While maincrop carrots prefer the light, open-textured soil essential for early crops, it is possible to grow them on heavier soils using stump-rooted types. If the soil needs manuring, this should be done for the previous crop. Dig the plot deeply in the autumn, leaving it rough over winter for a natural tilth to develop. Around mid spring, rake to a fine tilth, evenly incorporating a general purpose fertilizer. The first sowings can be made at this point, but seedlings will be vulnerable to carrot fly and it is better to wait until late spring or early summer if possible. Water regularly. Thin the seedlings when they are large enough to handle and withhold water unless conditions are very dry.

Harvesting: Maincrop carrots can either be left in the ground and dug up as needed - in which case they will need protection with straw during severe weather - or they can be lifted in mid autumn and stored. Place undamaged carrots only in boxes of sand in an airy frost-free place. They should keep until mid spring.

Possible Problems: Carrot fly larvae feed on the roots and can kill young seedlings or damage older plants.

growth. If manured for a previous crop, moisture retention will be improved. Raise plants from seed sown in mid winter. Sow in seedtrays in the greenhouse at 13C/55F. When the seedlings are large enough to handle, prick them out into trays of potting compost, spacing them 5cm/2in apart. Before transplanting - in early or mid spring, depending on weather and location - incorporate a general purpose fertilizer into the plot. If the soil is too cold, growth will be checked and a good head, or 'curd', will not form. Hoe to keep weeds down, and maintain growth with top dressings of nitrogen and regular waterings. Earth up the stems to prevent the plants shifting in the wind. To protect the developing curd from the sun and keep it white, break a leaf over it.

Harvesting: Cut cauliflowers as soon as they are ready throughout early summer, lifting them in the morning.

Possible Problems: Watch out for aphids, whitefly, flea beetles and caterpillars as well as club root. Whiptail is a leaf distortion occurring on acid soils.

Cauliflower - Summer/Autumn: Summer and autumn maturing cauliflowers are the easiest to grow. While they are not frost-hardy, the flavour is more delicate than that of winter types.

Growing: Give cauliflowers a non-acid, open fertile soil,

Cauliflower - Winter: Winter-maturing cauliflower varieties, though relatively hardy, do better in mild coastal areas where frost damage is minimal. The leaves tend to be wrapped protectively around the white 'curd'.

Growing: Go for a non-acid,

manured for a previous crop. Work in a base dressing of general purpose fertilizer before planting. Raise plants from seed sown in early spring in an outdoor seedbed that has not recently grown a brassica crop. Sow throughout spring in shallow drills 20-30cm/8-12in apart. Move the young plants to the growing site 8-10 weeks later. Firm in well. Growth must be unchecked - give a top dressing of a nitrogenous fertilizer and water regularly. Keep weeds down and earth up the stems to keep the plants steady. If the variety you are growing has upright leaves, bend one over the maturing head to prevent it yellowing.

Harvesting: Cut cauliflowers as soon as they are mature, in the cool of the morning. Depending on variety the crop will be ready from late summer to late autumn.

Possible Problems: See early cauliflower. Frost may damage late autumn crops.

open, fertile soil that has been manured for a previous crop. Good drainage is important: a strong root system must develop to anchor the plants during windy winter months. Winter cauliflower plants are produced by sowing seed in an outdoor seedbed in mid/late spring as described for late summer/autumn crops. Thin the seedlings if necessary to 2cm/3/4in to encourage short sturdy plants. Transplant to the growing site in mid summer. Keep weeds down during the winter and earth up the plants to keep them steady. When growth begins again in late winter apply a top-dressing of nitro-chalk, hoed in around the base of the plants.

Harvesting: Depending on variety, winter cauliflower are ready for picking from late winter to late spring. Cut at the base of the stem with a sharp knife.

Possible Problems: See early cauliflower. Soil-borne fungi may cause damping off of seedlings.

Chives:

A clump of chives is essential in the garden. The neat growing habit of chives makes them good edging plants in the herb bed, and if one or two clumps are left to bloom, their bright mauve pompom flowers provide a splash of colour.

Cucumber - Ridge: If you do not have a heated greenhouse and live in a cooler climate, you can still grow cucumbers if you choose the small variety that can be eaten in salads or pickled.

Growing: Dig the land deeply

Growing: Chives do best in a rich, damp sil and in sun or partial shade. They can be grown from seed sown in spring but germination is slow. It is quicker to divide clumps of established bulbs in spring or autumn. Grow several clumps of chives in order to have a succession of new growth and use the plants in rotation. Remove the flowers when they appear to keep the flavour in the leaves. Cover with cloches in autumn through winter, or dig up a small clump in autumn and transfer it to a pot to take indoors, where it will continue growing in the warmth. In spring throw out the exhausted plant.

Harvesting: Make sure new plants are well established before picking the leaves.

Possible Problems: Do not allow the plants to dry out. At intervals during the growing season, feed them with a liquid fertilizer.

Uses: Chives chopped finely add a delicate onion flavour to soups, sauces and salad dressings. Blend chives with cream cheese or butter to use as a topping for baked potatoes and use to perk up fish and egg dishes.

and thoroughly in the autumn and leave it rough for over-winter weathering. Before planting, take out a trench 30cm/12in deep and 45cm/18in wide. Half-fill it with manure and replace the soil to form a ridge. Plants must not be set out until all danger of frost is past. You can raise plants in the greenhouse and set them out in early summer, or sow seeds directly into the ridges at the end of spring covering them with cloches or jam jars. Sow seeds in pairs, and if both germinate, discard the weaker plant. Stop the plants after the sixth leaf and restrict side shoots to the space available. On ridge cucumbers both male and female flowers are needed to ensure fertilization. Water well and after the fruits have begun to set give the plants a high-nitrogen liquid feed.

Harvesting: Pick cucumbers when 15-20cm/6-8in long for salads, 5cm/2in long for gherkins.

Possible Problems: Cucumber mosaic virus causes mottled leaves and fruits and stunted plants. Keep aphids under control.

Gardener's Tip: For the best use of space train cucumbers up canes. Create a wigwam shape by tying the canes together at the top. This also keeps the cucumbers out of the reach of slugs.

Garlic: For a vegetable that is associated with tomatoes, basil and Mediterranean sunshine, garlic is surprisingly hardy and easy to grow.

Growing: Garlic does not need a very rich soil and planting after a summer crop of peas or beans, with their legacy of nitrogen left in the soil, can give good results,

Kale:

Kales are hardy winter greens that will stand very severe weather indeed. The type grown in vegetable gardens is curly kale - plain-leaved kale has a very strong flavour and is usually fed to livestock. Dwarf curly kales are useful for small gardens.

as can following on from a summer crop where the soil has been manured or composted - summer cabbage or early potatoes, for example. Like other members of the onion family, garlic doesn't do well in acid soils (those below pH 6.5). Unlike shallots and onions, garlic bulbs form below ground; when planting, the cloves should be pushed in so that they have at least an inch of soil above them. On light soils, they could go even deeper. The crop is said to be reliably hardy down to minus 10C (14F). Wet is much more likely to cause problems than cold. If the plants are sitting in water, roots will rot and growth will stop. They may not die, but rarely recover their potential in spring and usually give a poor crop. Garlic's main requirement in spring is plenty of water. Keep the crop weeded to avoid competition and give it a good soaking in dry spells.

Harvesting: Once the leaves have begun to fade, scrape the soil back from a couple of bulbs - if you can see the shape of the individual cloves then it is time to harvest. If left in the ground too long, the bulbs can split open and will not keep well in store. Lift the bulbs with a fork - carefully. They may look tough, but bruising at this stage can lead to rotting in store later. Put them somewhere warm, dry and airy, and leave them until the stem at the 'neck' of the bulb is thoroughly dry. Trim the ends of the stems, cut off the roots and remove any dirty outer layers of skin.

Growing: Kales do best if they follow well-manured crops such as early potatoes or peas. The soil should be non-acid and well drained. Raise plants in an outdoor seedbed, sowing seed thinly in mid/late spring, in drills 30cm/12in apart. Transplant the seedlings to the growing site in mid summer, setting dwarf varieties at the shorter distances of 45cm/18in each way. Fertilizer levels should be kept low to start with but increased by giving top dressings of nitrogenous fertilizer in mid winter.

Harvesting: Pick the young leaves off the plants from mid winter onwards. Regular picking will encourage sideshoots to develop which will produce more tender shoots in early and mid spring.

Possible Problems: The usual brassica pests and diseases will need to be dealt with. See Brussels sprouts.

Organic Tip: Club root cannot be cured and the fungus lives in and affects the soil for up to ten years. So it is important to grow plants that are as healthy as possible. Make sure the soil is not acid, is properly drained and rich in humus and dig up brassica stumps after harvesting.

Growing: To sustain rapid growth, well-drained soil is important. Apply lime in late winter. Sow seed thinly from mid spring to mid summer, thinning the seedlings as soon as they are large enough to handle. Sow the white-skinned variety at the beginning, switching to the purple one for later sowings (both have creamy flesh). The plants withstand heat and drought but regular light watering assists development. Hoe carefully to control weeds, taking care not to damage the stems.

Harvesting: Do not let the globes exceed 7.5cm/3in in diameter before picking or the flavour will be coarse. Use immediately, as kohlrabi do not store well.

Possible Problems: Relatively trouble-free.

Cook's Tip: Kohlrabi has a sweet, nutty flavour. To cook, scrub the bulb-shaped stems, then steam or boil for 15-25mins, depending on size. Peel just before serving and coat with a creamy sauce.

Growing: In mid winter sow seed thinly in trays in the greenhouse with the temperature at 10C/50F. When the seedlings are large enough to handle, prick them out into individual containers. They are slow-growing at first, but will be ready for planting out in late spring after a brief period of hardening off. Like maincrop leeks, early varieties can be grown on the flat or in trenches, as long as the soil is rich and deep and has been thoroughly cultivated in the previous autumn. Trench cultivation is necessary for exhibition leeks, which are fed regularly with a weak solution of nitrate of soda and superphosphate to increase size, staked to ensure straight stems and provided with cardboard collars packed with wood shavings to protect the foliage.

Harvesting: Early leeks are ready for lifting in early autumn but can be left in the ground until late autumn.

Possible Problems: Relatively trouble-free.

Leeks - Maincrop: This hardy vegetable is particularly useful in the mid to late winter period, as it may well be available when the last of stored onion bulbs have been used.

Growing: Raise plants in a seedbed on light, well-drained soil. Sow in late late winter/early

early spring in shallow drills 20-30cm/8-12in apart. Cover with cloches. When they are large enough to handle, thin the seedlings to 1-2cm/about 3/4in apart. Hand-weed regularly or the emerging plants may be swamped. Water occasionally. Transplant to the growing site in early summer, watering the plants well before moving them. Here a rich, deep soil is best, well-cultivated in the previous autumn. Incorporate a base dressing of a well-balanced general fertilizer before planting. Make holes 15-25cm/6-10in deep with a dibber. Drop 1 plant in each and fill with water. During the season the holes gradually fill up and further blanching can be done by drawing up soil around the plants in early autumn. Hoe regularly to remove weeds.

Harvesting: Leeks are hardy enough to be left in the ground and lifted as needed from late autumn to mid spring, though late varieties will not be ready until mid winter. Do not leave them any later or they will start to regrow.

Possible Problems: Relatively trouble-free.

Cook's Tip: To clean home-grown leeks, cut off the green top leaves, and the root, plus coarse outer skin. Then slit down the length to the centre, open out and wash under cold running water.

recommended for this reason.

Growing: For summer crops raised in the open, apply a base dressing of a general-purpose fertilizer before sowing and/or transplanting. Thin seedlings when large enough to handle, reducing the distances for Little Gem to 25cm/10in between the rows and 15cm/6in between the plants. Keep weeds in check. For over-wintering, see Butterhead lettuce, and choose a suitable hardy variety.

Harvesting: Cos lettuces are less likely to bolt than cabbage lettuces, but in hot, dry weather inspect the plants regularly and pick them as soon as they mature.

Possible Problems: As well as aphids and slugs, lettuces are susceptible to damping-off diseases and mildew.

Gardener's Tip: If some cos lettuce are grown close together they grow upright, produce good leaves more quickly and do not form hearts. Space 10cm/4in apart. Stumps of lettuces can also be left in the ground to regrow and provide a second crop.

Lettuce - Crisphead: The leaves of crisphead lettuce are large, curled and, as the name suggests, pleasantly crunchy. The old favourite, Webb's Wonderful, withstands heat and drought better than most.

Growing: Lettuces need light, moisture-retentive soil. For

unprotected plants, sow seed in the open at fortnightly intervals from mid spring to late summer. Crisphead varieties of cabbage lettuce are not as well suited to over wintering as butterhead types. Thin out the seedlings as soon as they can be handled. Keep the beds free of weeds and water the plants well.

Harvesting: In warm weather, lettuces of all types run to seed ('bolt') quickly, so check regularly and pick mature plants as soon as they are ready. Pick in the cool morning if you can.

Possible Problems: Aphids; slugs. Diseases include damping-off diseases and mildew if weather conditions are cold and damp.

crops. With the advent of frilly varieties like Lollo Rossa with red leaves, these lettuces are becoming very popular in gourmet salads. The long-established variety Salad Bowl is also available with red leaves as well as the standard green.

Growing: Leaf lettuces should be grown as outdoor summer crops like crispheads, and need the same light, moisture retentive soil as other types.

Harvesting: Leaves are produced throughout summer. Pick a few from each plant as needed. When all leaves have been used or died down, lift and discard the plant.

Marrow: These half-hardy memb ers of the cucumber family may be trailing or bushy in habit.

Growing: Marrows need fertile, well-drained soil. Prepare the growing site in late spring in a sheltered position, having dug the land deeply in the previous autumn. Dig out trenches 30cm/12in deep and 45cm/18in wide. Half fill with well-rotted

Marrow - Spaghetti: Sometimes called vegetable spaghetti, these curious fruiting vegetables look like elongated melons. They are boiled whole, and when split in two reveal tender flesh in spaghetti-like strands, eaten simply with butter and seasoning.

Growing: Prepare planting

manure and replace the soil to form a ridge. For early plantings, raise plants from seed sown in mid spring. To assist germination, place the seeds on sheets of soaked kitchen paper and keep at 18C/65F until the roots appear. Immediately transfer to individual 9cm/3.5in pots of potting compost and keep moist at 15-18C/60-65F until planting out in late spring. Germinated seed may be sown directly into the ridges in late spring. Water very generously while growing and conserve moisture with a mulch of organic manure, peat or grass cuttings. Give regular feeds of liquid fertilizer.

Harvesting: Pick marrows as soon as they reach 30cm/12in for a tender texture. Those ripening in early autumn can be stored in an airy, frost-free place for winter use.

Possible Problems: Spray with derris against aphids, which carry virus diseases. Watch for slugs.

holes as for courgettes but at the greater distances recommended. Raise plants from pre-germinated seed (see marrows). Sow seed in mid spring in individual pots of potting compost at 15-18C/60-65F and harden the seedlings off briefly before planting out in late spring, firming the plants in well. Alternatively, sow seed directly into the growing site, again in late spring. Feed and water well to encourage rapid growth. Because of its trailing habit, this plant needs training, on fences or tripods of 2m/7ft poles, if it is not to wander all over the garden. Support systems also help to keep the fruits out of slugs' way.

Harvesting: Pick spaghetti marrows at 20cm/8in long; do not leave them until the skin is so hard your fingernail cannot penetrate it. The plant will continue producing fruits for several weeks if they are harvested regularly.

Melon: Some melon varieties must be greenhouse grown, but for others the protection of a frame is enough.

Growing: Sow seed in mid spring for planting in late sring/early summer. Strew seeds on a wad of wet kitchen paper. Keep moist at 18C/65F. Some of the seeds

Onion: Raise onions under glass for outdoor planting in spring.

Growing: Sow seed at the turn of the year (on Boxing Day traditionally) in seed trays kept at 10C/50F. When the seedlings are large enough to handle prick them out into

will root within 2 days. Plant them 4cm/1.5in deep in individual 9cm/3.5in pots of compost. Keep the temperature steady until the first true leaf appears, then gradually reduce it to 15C/60F. Harden off for 2-3 days before planting out, 1 plant per frame. To prepare the frame, see Tip below. Set the plants into the mounded beds with the rootball 4cm/1.5in above the surface. Water in well. Spray regularly. Ventilate only on very hot days. Stop the plants after 3-4 leaves, again after another 4-5. Train 3-4 laterals into the corners, peg them down and stop them when they reach the edges. Open the frame on hot days to admit pollinating insects. After flowering, withhold water. Water the bed again when the fruits are egg-sized, keeping the atmosphere dry, Give liquid fertilizer every 10 days.

Harvesting: Fruits are ripe when they yield to gentle pressure and smell sweet. Cut off with a short stem.

Possible Problems: Red spider mite; root rot fungi.

Gardener's Tip: To prepare the frame, in late spring take out a 30cm/12in cube at the back and fill with well-rotted manure. Replace the soil to make a mound. Water the bed and cover the frame to create warmth and humidity.

individual containers. Gradually harden them off from early spring before planting outside in mid spring. Fertile non-acid soil is essential. Dig in well-rotted manure or compost in the autumn and leave the ground rough to develop a natural tilth. Before planting, rake in a fertilizer with nitrogen and potassium in the ration 1:2, as too much nitrogen encourages soft growth. Plant carefully: make a hole for each plant with a trowel or better still a dibber, deep enough for the roots to go their full depth but with the bottom of the bulblet not more than 1cm/half in below the surface. Firm each plant in well. Do not damage the leaves. Weed regularly with a short-handled onion hoe: don't damage the bulbs or cover them with earth. Water only in hot dry conditions. When the leaves wilt in late summer, fold them over neatly.

Harvesting: When the leaves are brittle, and on a warm sunny day, lift the bulbs. Lay them in the sun to dry, turning them frequently. When they are fully ripe, about 4 weeks later, store in wire-bottomed trays in a cool, frost-free place until the following spring.

Possible Problems: Onion fly larvae tunnel into the bulbs: spray with diazinon.

Onion - Spring Sown: Spring-sown onions are best in areas where cold, wet winters may damage an over-wintered crop.

Growing: A rich-textured, fertile soil is ideal. Onions do not tolerate acid soils, so it may be advisable to add lime. Prepare

Onion - Pickling: Little yellow silverskin onions for pickling are very quick to mature and easy to grow. The flavour is milder than that of bulb onions.

Growing: While pickling onions prefer the fertile, rich-textured soil important for bulb onions, they can be grown on

the ground in the autumn, digging in well-rotted manure or compost and leaving it rough over winter for a tilth to develop. In late winter, incorporate a fertilizer with nitrogen and potassium in the ration 1:2 and rake the soil to a fine tilth. Firm the plot by treading up and down. Sow fairly thinly in the rows. While thinnings can be used for salads, the less disturbance to the plants the better. Watering is only necessary in dry seasons, but weeding must be carried out regularly. The bulbs begin to ripen in late summer, when the leaves fall over: if they don't, bend them over gently so that the ripening sun can get to the bulbs.

Harvesting: By the time the leaves are shrivelling the bulbs are ripe enough to lift. Choose a warm sunny day and pick the bulbs by hand or ease them out with a fork. Let them dry in the sun if possible, otherwise spread them out in the greenhouse. When the leaves are brittle, store the onions in wire-bottomed trays or make them into ropes. It is essential that they are in an airy, frost-free, dry place.

Possible Problems: Many of the diseases afflicting onions can be avoided by observing crop rotations.

poorer soils as long as they are not acid. Rake the bed to a fine tilth in spring and tread it flat. Sow seed in mid spring in shallow drills, sowing very closely to make sure that the individual bulbs remain small. Water lightly but regularly to speed growth. Remove weeds by hand. The crop does not need thinning. In mid summer the leaves turn yellow and topple over - bend them over to speed up the ripening process.

Harvesting: Pick at the end of late summer. Fork up the onions and, if conditions are favourable, leave them on the ground for about a week to dry, turning them over from time to time.

Possible Problems: See spring-sown onions. Onion fly is the most likely pest.

Cook's Tip: To pickle onions place them, unpeeled, in brine for a day. Drain and peel the onions, put in jars and cover with spiced vinegar. Seal. To make brine, dissolve 450g/1lb coarse salt in boiling water, allow to cool, strain and make up to 4.5 litres/8 pints. To make spiced vinegar add to 1 litre white cider vinegar, 5cm/2in piece cinnamon, 1 tsp cloves, 2 tsp allspice, 1 tsp black peppercorns, 1 tsp mustard seed, 2-3 bay leaves, cover and bring to boil.

Onion - Spring: Otherwise known as salad onions, these small white bulbs with slender green stems are mild enough to be eaten raw but with enough pungency to enliven salads (the larger the bulb the stronger the flavour).

Growing: Spring onions are grown close together to restrict the development of the bulb. The idea soil is rich-textured, fertile and non-acid, and manured for a previous crop. Rake the plot to a

Parsnips: Because parsnips occupy the ground for such a long time - often a whole year - they are best in large gardens that can spare the space.

Growing: Parsnips need deep, rich, open-textured soils, free of stones and manured for a previous crop. Freshly manured soil produces misshapen roots. Work in a base dressing of a well balanced fertilizer before sowing. Sow as early as

fine tilth before sowing and tread it firm. For an early spring crop, sow seed of a hardy variety fairly thickly and protect with cloches. For lifting in early summer, sow in late winter under glass or early spring in the open. Seed sown in early summer will give onions for lifting in the autumn. All crops should be kept weed-free - hand weeding is best to avoid damaging the developing bulbs. No thinning is required.

Harvesting: Pull the onions as soon as they are big enough to use, with the leaves still green and tender. Unlike bulb onions, salad onions cannot be stored and should be used very fresh.

Possible Problems: Rotate crops to avoid a build-up of soil-borne diseases. Onion fly larvae may be a problem on lighter soil.

possible to get the maximum length of growing season; late winter/early spring is ideal. As germination is erratic, sow seed liberally in the drills and thin seedlings later. Alternatively, sow 4-5 seeds at each station and discard all but the strongest seedling after emergency.

Harvesting: The leaves will go yellow and begin to die down from late autumn, and the roots can then be lifted as required. Tradition has it that the flavour is at its best when parsnips have been frosted. It is certainly better to leave them in the ground until you want them as they quickly go soft if stored. Regrowth begins in early spring so they must all be used by then.

Possible Problems: Canker is a fungus which rots the roots and ruins the crop. Always grow resistant varieties.

Pea: The early types of pea were round-seeded, but the less hardy, wrinkle-seeded or marrowfat peas have a much higher sugar content and, as a result, a better flavour. Round-seeded peas are now mainly used for winter and early spring sowings because of their greater hardiness.

Growing: Peas grow best in deep, rich soils which are moisture retentive. It is most important that the roots are always able to

Pea - Mangetout: Sugar pea is another name for the mangetout pea. The whole pod, complete with the young, immature seeds, is eaten, after topping and tailing and cooking.

Growing: Like all peas, mangetout grow best in deep, rich soils which are moisture retentive. Sow at intervals from early to mid spring in flat-bottomed drills which are 10-15cm/4-5in wide and 5-7.5cm/2-3in deep. Scatter the

obtain enough water. Sow at intervals from early to mid spring in flat-bottomed drills which are 10-15cm/4-6in wide and 5-7cm/2-3in deep. Scatter the peas evenly in the bottom of the drill to leave the individual seeds 5-7cm/2-3in apart. Rake the soil back over the seeds. Distances between rows will vary from 60-1.2m/2-4ft and should be roughly equivalent to the expected height of the varieties being grown. When the seedlings are 5-7.5cm/2-3in high, provide support with twiggy pea sticks. Make certain that they are thin enough for the tendrils to grasp and as tall as the expected height of the variety being grown.

Harvesting: First early, second early and maincrop peas sown at intervals during early and mid spring will produce mature crops through early and mid summer. Your crop should be ready for picking to start about 3 weeks after flowering. Pick while young and tender, at 2 to 3 day intervals.

Possible Problems: A serious pest is the pea moth.

peas evenly in the bottom of the drill to leave the individual seeds 5-7.5cm/2-3in apart. Rake the soil back over the seeds. Distances between rows will vary from 60cm-1.2m/2-4ft and should be roughly equivalent to the expected height of the varieites being sown. When the seedlings are 5-7.5cm/2-3in high, provide support with well-branched and twiggy pea sticks.

Harvesting: Pick the pods while flat and immature - before you can see the seeds from the outside and when they are 7.5cm/3in long. Pick - regularly to encourage yield - from the bottom of the plant upwards.

Possible Problems: Birds and mice may caused damage by eating or removing the germinating seeds. Two or three single strands of black cotton, not nylon thread, above the seed row will hinder birds. Shaking the seed in a little powdered seed dressing before sowing will deter mice.

Pepper: Peppers, the mature fruits of the capsicum plant are green, but if left on the plant will eventually turn red.

Growing: Peppers need very similar conditions to aubergines, and they make good companions in the greenhouse as well as the kitchen.

Peppers are the less tender of the two, and can be grown outside in warm districts in good summers, in a sheltered site. All plants must be raised in a greenhouse. Sow seed thinly in trays of compost in late winter/early spring at 21C/70F. Pot the seedlings on into 9cm/3.5in pots of proprietary compost when they are large enough to handle. Plant out in mid to late spring into the greenhouse bed or into 20cm/8in pots of soil into which plenty of well-rotted organic manure has been incorporated. Make sure the soil is warm when the plants are set out, and keep the temperature in the greenhouse at 18C/64F minimum. Keep the plants well waterred and fed regularly with a high-nitrogen fertilizer. The developing plants need support, such as strings suspended from overhead wires, or canes if the plants are going outside. Pinch out the terminal flower in order to give continuous fruiting.

Harvesting: Begin picking green peppers in late summer, cutting them with a sharp knife. Pick regularly.

Possible Problems: Watch out for aphids on young plants, red spider mite and whitefly in the greenhouse.

and take care not to touch your eyes or lips.

Growing: Chilli peppers need heat, humidity and light. Sow seeds in spring in seed trays of compost kept at a constant 21C/70F, and prick out when large enough into 9cm/3.5in pots of proprietary compost. Grow on at 17C/65F. Pot on in late spring to 20cm/8in pots. Spray daily with water and feed regularly with nitrogenous fertilizer. Give a stake to each plant and pinch out when they reach 20cm/8in to encourage bushy growth.

Harvesting: Pick the chillies when they are plump and glossy and use immediately. They will keep for up to 2 weeks wrapped in baking parchment in a box in the refrigerator.

Possible Problems: Keep all greenhouse pests under control.

Preserving Tips: Chilli peppers are best eaten fresh but they can also be dried to preserve them through the winter.

Potato - First Early:

Growing: Soil should be freely drained yet moisture retentive and preferably slightly acid. Double-dig the ground in the autumn, incorporating plenty of organic manure or well-rotted compost into the lower spit. Leave the top surface rough over winter to allow

Potato - 2nd Early:

Growing: The soil conditions for all types of potatoes are the same as for first earlies. Give them a site which provides maximum protection against frost. If spring frosts kill off young foliage there will be a 2-3 week setback to the crop.

a natural tilth to develop. Before planting, evenly work in a general purpose fertilizer. Only use 'seed' potatoes athat are certified virus-free. Order first earlies for mid winter so that they can be sprouted before planting. Growth begins from 'eyes', most of which appear at the rose end. Place the tubers close together, rose end upwards, in slatted-bottom trays. Leave in a light, frost-free but unheated place for shoots to develop. In mid or late spring, make 15cm/6in deep trenches with a hoe and plant the tubers, without damaging the shoots. Rake the soil back to cover and leave the surface slightly mounded over each row. Ridge up the plants as described for second earlies. Water when the tubers are 1cm/half in in diameter. Avoid watering late in the season.

Harvesting: Lift in early summer when the foliage is still green. Yield increases rapidly through mid until late summer.

Possible Problems: Frost is a danger to young foliage. Aphids cause distortion of the foliage and may spread viruses from other plants.

Second early varieties do not need to be sprouted before planting. Prepare a trench as for first earlies and set the tubers out in mid or late spring.

Ridging: When the potato shoots are 15cm/6in tall, loosen the soil between the rows with a fork and then drawn it up around the plants with a hoe so that the sloping ridges meet near the top of the plants. Repeat at 3 week intervals until the foliage is touching.

Harvesting: Second earlies can be lifted in late summer and early autumn as needed. Neither first nor second earlies are suitable for storage, so do not lift the potatoes until you need them. Carefully dig up the potatoes using a flat-tined fork.

Possible Problems: Keep aphids under control. Potato cyst eelworm is a pest living in the soil which attacks the roots, causing cysts to form. Long crop rotation is essential to eradicate it.

Potato - Maincrop:

Growing: Prepare the soil and make trenches as for early varieties. Maincrop varieties do not need to be sprouted before planting. Set the tubers out during mid spring. If frost threatens emerging shoots, scatter straw over them for

Potato - Container: If your garden is small, but you have a heated greenhouse, you can still grow some of your own delicious new potatoes. Choose a very early variety.

Growing: Sprout the tubers in mid winter as described for

protection. Ridge up the developing plants as described for second earlies.

Harvesting: Maincrop potatoes, harvested in early or mid autumn, will be easier to dig if the haulm (foliage) is removed about 3 weeks before. This also reduces the risk of disease spreading from the foliage to the tubers.

Storage: Potatoes should be allowed to dry before storing. In warm, dry weather this can be done by leaving them in the open for 2-3 hours. Discard any damaged or diseased specimens. It is useful to grade the potatoes by size before placing them in boxes, trays or sacks. Keep in a dark, frost-free place. Dark is essential to prevent the tubers developing green areas containing poisonous substances which make them inedible. Inspect the tubers monthly. Remove rotting specimens and rub off developing 'sprouts'.

Possible Problems: Potato blight affects foliage and tubers. Spray with fungicide from mid summer onwards whenever wet, humid conditions last for more than 2 days.

first earlies. In mid to late winter, plant the sprouted tubers 2 to a 25-30cm/10-12in pot containing a fairly rich potting compost. Water the pots well. Keep them at a temperature of 6-7C/43-45F at first and then at 10-13C/50-55F. Water regularly using a weak liquid fertilizer.

Harvesting: About 12 weeks after planting the tubers should be large enough to lift. Take the plants from the pot to remove the potatoes.

Possible Problems: Usually trouble free.

Gardener's Tip: Use a home-made automatic watering system to provide a constant supply of water to pot-grown plants. Fill a bucket with water and place on a higher level than the plants. Cut soft water-retentive material into 2cm/three quarters in wide strips to make wicks and place one end of each in the bucket and the other end on the soil in the pot. The water is taken up by the wicks and seeps along them into the soil in each pot keeping it damp.

Pumpkin: Although large pumpkins are impressive exhibition pieces and useful at hallowe'en, for cooking purposes, small specimens are better. In fact it is difficult to grow giant pumpkins in the British climate. Full sun is essential. Both bush and trailing types are available

Radish: This popular vegetable can be grown for most of the year, adding colour, texture and taste to salads.

Growing: Rapid growth is essential to produce crisp, tender roots. Do not dig in fresh manure prior to sowing,

Growing: In fertile, well-drained soil, prepare planting holes as for courgettes but at the greater distances recommended. To raise plants under glass, sow pre-germinated seed (see marrows) in mid spring and keep the seedlings moist at 10-13C/50-55F until planting out in early summer. Alternatively, sow directly into the growing site in late spring, covering the seeds with jars or cloches until they have sprouted two true leaves. Feed and water generously. Stop trailing types at 45cm/18in to encourage the flower-bearing sideshoots. For bigger pumpkins, leave only 1 or 2 fruits per plant.

Harvesting: Pumpkins are usually eaten as they mature in summer, but types that bear larger fruits should be left until autumn. Store in a cool, frost-free place.

Possible Problems: Grey mould on the leaves. Use a systemic fungicide if powdery mildew appears on the leaves. See also courgettes.

but grow on rich soil which has sufficient organic matter to retain moisture. Always sow into a deep, fine bed. Because radishes are in the ground for a relatively short time, they are usually grown as a catch crop, between the rows of other vegetables that take longer to mature. Make the first sowing in mid-winter under frames or cloches. The first outdoor sowings of maincrop types can be made as soon as the ground is workable, in late winter/early spring, and thereafter fortnightly until late summer. Seed can be broadcast and lightly raked in or set at the recommended spacings. Water well, and give protected crops plenty of air on mild days.

Harvesting: Pick and eat as soon as they are ready. It takes up to 8 weeks for mid-winter sowings to mature but only 3-4 weeks for summer crops.

Possible Problems: Damping off affects plants sown too thickly. Like brassicas, radishes are susceptible to club root, but if the soil is adequately limed this should not cause much damage as the plants are in the ground for such a short time.

Ruby Chard (Seakale Beet): A showpiece in the vegetable garden, ruby chard's ornamental red stems can be eaten as a separate vegetable from the leaves, as in the case of Swiss Chard. The leaves have a milder flavour than those of true spinach.

Growing: As is true of the other leaf beets - spinach beet and Swiss chard - any well-drained fertile garden soil is suitable for growing ruby chard. It should be given plenty of organic manure to encourage succulent leaf growth. The best results are obtained from spring-sown crops. Sow the seed thinly in 1cm/half in deep drills during mid spring. Leave 40cm/16in between rows and thin the seedlings to 20cm/8in apart when they are large enough.

Harvesting: A little ruby chard can be pulled in winter, but mainly in late summer and early autumn. Take only the young outer leaves while they are tender and pull them off complete with the base, being extra careful not to pull up the plant.

Possible Problems: Weed control is particularly necessary during the early stages of this crop and extra watering in dry weather will help to prevent bolting.

grow than true spinach.

Growing: Any well-drained fertile garden soil is suitable. Swiss chard should be given plenty of organic manure to encourage succulent leaf growth. Sow the seed thinly in 1cm/half in deep drills during mid spring. Leave 40cm/16in between rows and thin the seedlings to 20cm/8in apart when they are large enough. Swiss chard can be sown in mid/late summer for an over-wintering crop, but the best results are obtained from spring-grown crops.

Harvesting: A little Swiss chard can be pulled in winter, but mainly in late summer and early autumn. Take only the young outer leaves while they are tender and pull them off complete with the base, being extra careful not to pull up the plant.

Shallot: Shallots are small bubls of the onion family about 2.5-5cm/1-2in in diameter, milder in flavour than large onions and commonly used for pickling or for flavouring casseroles and soups. They grow in clumps of 6-12.

Growing: Shallots are raised from the best bulbs saved from the previous year's crop and are planted like onion sets. They like the same soil as other onions: rich-textured, fertile and non-acid

Spinach: Spinach is very sensitive to day length, which is why it is apt to 'bolt' in the long days of summer. Steadier growth in autumn, winter and early spring allows several pickings.

Growing: A moist, rich, deeply dug soil is essential. For a summer supply, frequent small sowings are advisable, as in general only one cut can be made before spinach runs to

manured in the autumn before planting. Rake the plot to a fine tilth and firm the soil before setting out the little bulbs. Plant as early in late winter as possible, firming them in well. Any bulbs dislodged by birds, worms or frost should be replanted immediately. Keep weeds down, taking care not to damage the bulbs. As they begin to dry off in early/mid summer, gently remove the soil from around the clumps.

Harvesting: The leaves will turn yellow and wither when growth has finished. Lift the shallots with care and spread them out individually in the sun to dry for a few days, or under protection if the weather is wet. Use immediately if required for pickling or store in an airy, frost-free place for future use. Select the best bulbs for planting next season.

Possible Problems: There is a danger of soil-borne diseases building up if onions are grown on the same plot year after year, so rotate the crop.

seed. In warm parts of the country, the first sowing can be made under cloches in late winter, followed by outdoor sowings in early spring. Sow the seed thinly in 2.5cm/1in deep drills spaced 30cm/12in apart. Water the bottom of the drill before sowing in dry weather. Thin the seedlings to 15cm/6in apart to allow reasonably sized plants to develop and to prevent excessive moisture loss and therefore bolting. Make further sowings at 2-3 weeks intervals until mid summer.

Winter spinach, which can be cropped between mid autumn and late spring, is sown in late summer and early autumn. In this case, however, growth rate and the danger of bolting will be less so the seedlings can be thinned, if necessary, to 7.5-15cm/3-6in apart. The plants will benefit from cloche protection from mid autumn.

Harvesting: Leaves can be eaten very small or allowed to grow larger. Pick them off the plant as required.

Spinach - NZ: New Zealand spinach is a useful vegetable for dry soils, and can be cropped regularly over a long period. It is a half-hardy sprawling plant.

Growing: New Zealand spinach must either be sown indoors in mid spring, hardened off and planted out in late spring after

Squash - Summer: Summer squashes are popular vegetables in North America. Related to pumpkins and marrows, they cannot be stored but - like courgettes - should be used soon after picking.

Growing: Full sun and fertile

risk of frost has passed, or sown directly outdoors in early summer - or a little earlier under cloches. To assist germination, soak the seed in water overnight before sowing. Grow in stations 60cm/2ft apart. Sow 3 seeds per station, about 2cm/ 3/4in deep, and pull out the two weakest seedlings as they grow. New Zealand spinach does best in hot summers, so choose a site in full sun with a light, well-drained soil.

Harvesting: New Zealand spinach should crop from early summer to early autumn, and must be picked regularly - otherwise it becomes tough, and knobbly seedheads are formed. Pick carefully, by nipping off the leaves without tearing. The plants are quite robust and up to half the leaves may be picked at a time.

Possible Problems: Pick off any flowers to keep leaves growing. Hungry spinach of any kind will be bitter and possibly earthy flavoured. Give extra base dressing and liquid feed well throughout the summer.

soil is important. Prepare the site in autumn by digging out planting holes 30cm/12in deep, half-filling them with well-rotted manure and replacing the soil to form mounds. In late spring, prepare the seeds by placing them on sheets of soaked kitchen paper kept at 18C/65F until roots appear. Plant the seeds immediately after germination, one to each site, and cover with an upturned jar until the first true leaves appear. Feed and water generously. Stop trailing varieties at 45cm/18in to encourage the production of flower-bearing side shoots. Bush types are more compact and better for small gardens.

Harvesting: Pick squashes when they are young and tender for the best flavour. Harvest regularly to encourage the formation of more fruits.

Possible Problems: Slugs; aphids.

Swede: This hardy relative of the turnip is much larger and sweeter than its cousin. The skin may be white, purple or yellow but the flesh is usually yellow, sometimes white. Swedes store very successfully and are particularly popular in the north.

Growing: Any fertile, non-acid soil is suitable, manured for a previous crop as freshly manured

ground will give forked roots. Work a little well-balanced fertilizer into the seed bed before sowing. Sow seed in drills in late spring/early summer in more exposed areas, and thin out when the seedlings are large enough to handle. Water well throughout the season.

Harvesting: Swedes are hardy enough to be left in the ground and lifted as required from early autumn through the winter. They store well in clamps, which is useful if the ground is likely to be frozen.

Possible Problems: Flea beetle damage may occur on young seedlings. Boron deficiency causes the flesh to discolour and harden.