Soft Fruits

Forming a Bush: A well-formed bush has, ideally, a clean 'leg' to about 25cm (10in) and around eight to 12 branches spread evenly round the bush with an open centre to allow in light and ease picking. This may take three or four years to achieve, but fruiting will start in the second year.

After planting remove any side growth from soil level to the first shoot at or above 25cm (10in). Select three or four side shoots spaced round the bush and cut out all growth above them. Usually these young side shoots are not very long and can be left unpruned at this stage. If, however, they are over 20cm (8in) long, cut them back by up to half, to an outward-facing bud, leaving at least three buds to grow out. If you can only find two well-placed shoots, leave two suitably placed buds above them and remove the rest of the top. These will become the 'leaders'.

Year One: In the next winter look for more side branches arising from near the stem that can form leaders. Reduce the original leaders and any new selections by half to encourage branching. Cut out any side shoots growing towards the centre or directly downwards towards the ground. Prune back all other side growth to three buds.

Year Two and thereafter: Continue this regime in winter until bush is fully formed. From the summer of the second year, summer pruning can commence (see 'Forming a Cordon').

Forming a Cordon: A cordon is pruned to have a single upright stem to about 1.5-2m (5-6ft) with fruiting side shoots along its length.

After planting the new currant, trim off any side growth on the first 30cm (1ft) of trunk from the ground to leave a clean leg. Select a single leader at the top to make the cordon and reduce all others shoots to three beds. Remove any growth pointing towards the wall or fence (not necessary on an open structure). During this first year leave the currant unpruned.

Year Two: In the next winter reduce the leading shoot by one third and cut back all side shoots to 3 beds of the current year's growth. A spur system will now be starting to form. Tie in the central stem to an upright cane. In the next summer the first few fruits will form and growth will be more ebullient. Summer pruning can now begin. In late June prune back all side shoots to five leaves of current season's growth. Leave the leader unpruned.

Year three onwards: In the winter cut back the leader as in Ydear 2 and tie it into the cane. This process continues in following years until the currant has reaches the desired height. Thereafter prune back the leader to one or two buds. In time the top will become a complex of short stubs. When this occurs cut back to a younger shoot lower down. The supporting cane can be removed once the cordon is established.

The side growth that you pruned in summer can now be shortened further to two or three buds of that summer's growth. These two regular operations continue thereafter for the life of the plant (probably 12 to 15 years). When spur systems become long and complicated, prune back to a single younger shoot in winter.

Forming a Fan: A fan consists of what can only be described as a 'fan' of 10 or 12 radiating branches all formed and pruned as for a cordon. The first stages are slightly different:

After planting look for two opposite branches about 30cm (1ft) from the ground in a flat plane along the line of the supports. Prune out the top just above these and cut out any other growth below. Leave the plant unpruned as it grows through the summer.

Year One: In the subsequent winter tie in any suitably placed branches to canes to start the fan, keeping the centre clear. Prune these back by half to a bud, so that they will branch out to form more 'arms'. Reduce all other side growth to three buds.

Year Two: This process continues year by year until the fan fills the available framework. Summer pruning starts from the second summer and each 'arm' is treated as for cordons.

Raspberries are one of the easiest fruits to grow and will give handsome yields even in their second year. However, they are vigorous, so diligent pruning is required to prevent congested growth. There are two types of raspberries: summer-fruiting and autumn-fruiting varieties and both require different pruning.

Summer varieties -

after you have finished picking the berries, cut out to ground level all the canes which have carried fruit, then tie in the replacement canes about 4in (10cm) apart, pulling out any that are growing away from the row.

Autumn varieties -

Each February cut down all canes to ground level to leave room for the new ones which appear in spring and will bear fruit from September to the first frosts.

Strawberry plants established for two or more years need treatment now. Hoe along the rows, clearing weeds. Give a dressing of a "complete" fish manure at 4 oz per square yard. Supplement this by spreading a thin mulch of decayed compost around plants.

Give protection as the blooms apepar to prevent fruit being splashed by mus by tucking clean straw under and around the plants. Do not use lawn mowings or meadow hay as they encourage pests and disease. Straw mats sold for the purpose give complete protection. Black polythene is also suitable.

A double thickness of fish netting will prevent frost damage. Remove it each morning. Later on it can be used as a safeguard against birds. Runners from the parent plant should be restricted to about four. Those retained for propagating are either pegged into the soil or into small pots of loamy soil sunk into the ground.

There may be several plantlets growing on a runner; retain only the one nearest the parent plant on each runner. When well-rooted after about a month, cut connecting stalks, take up plants and transfer them to a new bed or put them in shade until needed for growing in the greenhouse. If straw has been used it can be raked into rows when fruiting is finished and burnt where it lies. The plants will not be harmed. Or you can transfer it to the compost heap. It is excellent for this purpose, especially if your ground is heavy.